June 19
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20020619

June 19, 2002

Day 41

Start: Grand Conroy RV Camping, Doyles, NF
End: 
Miles: 0

The high today was 69f and the low was 36 last night or early this morning. It was a beautiful day all day in southwestern Newfoundland.

We ate & took the truck to town. In this case, “town” was Port-aux-Basques, where the ferry terminal is located. We wandered around and bought some film. I still don’t envy the ferry commanders their chore of turning the ship around in that tiny harbor.

We came across the old railroad station and a bunch of cars on the old tracks.

Then we headed east till we got to the end of the road at Rose Blanche. This name is another corruption of the original French “Roche Blanche”, or “White Rock”. It has a picturesque harbor, so we took a couple shots of it. It also has a lighthouse

The lighthouse was constructed of local stone in the 1800’s. It was abandoned after WWII, and much of it fell down in the next 50 years. The townsmen, who had lost their major income when the cod moratorium was put in place, decided to rebuild it for a tourist attraction. They found people who had lived in it as kids, drew up plans with them, and rebuilt it. They did the external walls first, finding about 70% of the 
stone needed was still there, it had just fallen down. The rest they quarried on the point. Then they rebuilt the interior using modern materials, since no one could tell what was there originally. Finally, townsfolk loaned period furniture and pictures to complete the place. A guide takes you through the place and tells more about it. It was a nice thing to see, and should result in several good pictures.

We had lunch in the Friendly Fisherman, which has a great view of the harbor but not very much parking. Once again, these little towns on inlets are more vertical than horizontal.

We came back, stopping for a hike out to a waterfall en route, to Port-aux-Basques. The ferry was just coming in. We stopped to fuel up and headed north for the campground. As we did, the stampede of people coming off the boat started. We went north with them for a bit, until Dolores wanted to look at a lighthouse off the beaten track called Cape Ray. Pictures were taken, and we came back to the highway.

There, traffic was backed up for 30 or so vehicles headed south, due to an accident just south of the turnout. We eased our way between two of them and headed north. The accident looked like an overturned semi and trailer. But when we got to the campground a lady who had been waiting there said there was a car involved, too. She was half of a couple from Montana, pulling the largest fifth-wheel trailer I’ve ever seen. It is 44 feet long and has four axles. They pull it with a large Freightliner tractor.

We’re going to eat in tonight, and hook up the truck. We’ll rise about 5:00, hit the road at 6:00, and go to the ferry. Newfoundland was great; we enjoyed it very much and would gladly come back. But we have to move on.