Still in the North Atlantic, making our way to the northern Scottish islands, Stornoway first.
At 0800 we're doing 18 knots, course 125*, directly south of the center of Iceland. The sea state is 3 for choppy waves but there are long rolling swells also. The ship is rolling about 5* each was with the swells, despite having the stabilizers in action. The wind is supposed to be 50 knots out of the south. It's overcast with occasional patches of blue sky.
The door to the veranda, under certain twisting motion of the ship, allows a wailing noise that's spooky. The lowest drawer in the desk arrangement rolls out when the ship rolls to port; why it doesn't roll back on starboard rolls is a mystery.
We lazed the morning away before going to the pool deck for a hamburger & drinks.
Returning to the suite we found mail in our slot at the door. The letter gives us $550 OBC for the inconvenience caused by the plumbing issues. It'll be a challenge to spend. We must go look. We looked but bought nothing at this point. We loafed the rest of the afternoon.
We put on Orange clothing items for the Orange dinner in the MDR, which featured Malaysian items like Bami Goreng. Quite good, in a strange way.
Back to the books since tonight's show is a comedian and we don't feel particularly funny.
20240624 Monday
Now we go to the islands in the north of Scotland. Stornoway is first. We've elected a ship's tour of Great Bernara, whatever that is.
We're due to arrive around 1030 and to dock at the new Deepwater Cruise Terminal.
First, up to Lido for breakfast (we're in our shabby going-ashore clothes). While eating, D saw a dolphin ahead to starboard.
At 0900 we're tip-toeing through fog at 10 knots near the island east of Stornoway. Lots of rocks around here, so the Captain will be cautious getting through them.
The pilot did not want to come out from Stornoway due the gale force winds and 14-foot seas. The Captain agreed that the port is inaccessible under these conditions. Thus, and in consideration of the overall schedule, the stop at Portree tomorrow is cancelled. Our Portree tour costs will be refunded to their source.
The storm, a tight low-pressure area which has been dogging us all the way from Greenland, should pass by morning, and we'll try to get into Stornoway once more.
For now, we're just wandering around in the lee of an island to minimize rolling.
Just shows that the North Atlantic can be a bad place any time of year. So far, we've not been able to do four ports of the twelve scheduled.
The Captain came through the Lido pool deck while we were doing Bratwurst & Gluhwein. Got a picture. He says the low pressure area has spun off several smaller low pressure cells and it's quite confusing.
We read books while the ship went back and forth killing time.
And then it all changed….
During dinner in the MDR the Captain announced the winds had dropped dramatically, and that we're proceeding into Stornoway.
There are many actions that are to be changed. We'll tie up to the pier about 2100, but stay uncleared, no one ashore. UK immigration will come aboard early in the morning and we'll be processed ashore to our tours, which times have changed as well.
So we found the pilot and the new terminal pier, which is beautiful to tie up to, but lacks any sort of building upon it. That will come in time. The new cruise terminal is not close to the old downtown, but they say shuttles will run all day any day a cruise ship is in town.
We had post-dinner drinks in the Crow's Nest as we approached the terminal. Then we returned to the suite.
20200625 Tuesday
Today we DO NOT stop in Portree. We are in Stornoway and will do the tour scheduled for yesterday, with the times altered.
Totally different weather - wind calm, high clouds.
Coffee & juice while waiting for the immigration folks to set up and begin.
We went through the immigration check (checker holding up passport and comparing with face of person) in the upper MDR, then to the gathering place in the theatre. When our number was called about 0800 we went midships, out, and to the bus.
This island is very rocky and the roads wend through the rocks. Slow going and lots of rocking side-to-side. We went about a half-hour to a small adjacent island (Great Bernera) over a 400 foot bridge. Great Bernera (GB) boasts an Iron Age Village and Bosta Beach. We stopped at the community center, which was closed, but we took pictures of the area around it.
Then our leader led us down a path (called a footway here) to a viewpoint where you can see a modest sandy beach, perhaps 100 meters across. Looked like a nice place to splash but the temp was under 60* and the water looked much colder.
Farther on the path was the local cemetery and all about were sheep. We went through gates (that must be closed after passing through lest sheep do something) to a good-sized mound of grassy soil. A spokesperson came along and led half of us down a tiny soil and rock access path to a four-foot high passage under a large flat lintel slab over the entry.
Inside, the cross-poles holding up the "roof"allowed a 6-foot person to stand. There was a space for a tiny fire (simulated with small battery candles) and a hole in the roof to let out the smoke. The entry room was quite large, perhaps 15' by 15'. Rock seating was provided along one wall. There was a small room beyond this one that wasn't explained. But the narrator told us what they gathered from land and sea, and speculated on what they did. They were there roughly 400AD to 800AD, then died out. We tried flash photography but the darkness couldn't be overcome.
The other half the bus-load had their turn in the hole while we in the first half took pictures of sheep and rocks.
Then we rode the bus back to the ship, at one point sighting a small deer that the guide called a stag. We also saw a seal in an inlet, possibly wondering how to get out.
Photo Link
Back at Zuiderdam we left the bus and walked to the shuttle bus to go to Stornoway's downtown. A mostly single-lane road (with passing cutouts) took us to the two-lane road into town. The information center was two doors from the drop-off. There we bought a few things. We got hints on where to go for more; we went there and bought more. Nice little town, very friendly people, with interests in fishing and tourism.
Back to the ship by shuttle and boarded it about 1430, fairly frazzled. We dumped the goodies in the suite and proceeded to the lounge for liquid refreshment. Back to the suite after that for some rest.
At 1800 (underway time) the Captain announced the ship had been part of a ceremony welcoming it to the new dock - we're the first ship visiting here this year, so we're the first ship to use the new dock.
The Captain said we'd make our way to Kirkwall overnight and anchor there about 0730 tomorrow.
We didn't feel like dressing for the Captain's Gala but just picked up things in the Lido. Walked out onto the aft deck to sit in the sun for a bit, then returned to the suite to rest.
Steward K had done the suite while we were out. The new bed animal is a bunny - with chocolates. K and his helper have done very well for us this voyage.
20240626
Today it's Krikwall in the Orkney islands. We'll be going on the South Isles Panoramic Drive, during which we'll see the famous Scapa Flow anchorage the British used time and again as a fleet anchorage. Part of the WW1 British fleet that battled at Jutland sailed from Scapa Flow.
Despite all the defenses set up here after WW1 and at the start of WW2, Gunther Prien drove his U-Boat into it, sank HMS Royal OaK, and got back out. Hitler gave him an award for the feat.
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And that's what we did. We anchored, took the tender to the tiny marina, noticing Azamara Onward tied up to a pier as we galumphed along. The initial impression of the town was that is wasn't much, or at least less than Stornoway.
We boarded out bus for the tour. The tour leader explained Scapa Flow as we passed it on our way to St Margaret's Hope, an island and a tiny village. Finding nothing there we pressed on. Leaving, we saw a small distillery named J Gow specializing in rum.
The next stop was the Italian Chapel, built by Italian POW's during WW2. Interesting what they could do with very little in building this unique little place inside what we would call a Quonset Hut.
Then back to Kirkwall. We walked a few streets, gathering as we went and eventually came back to the tender canopy. We endured another uncomfortable ride back to the ship.
Photo Link
There, we had burgers & fries on the pool deck (nearly empty) then returned to the suite. Then we prepared the final laundry bag for submission and put it out.
D said she hadn't slept well so she opted for a nap while O did the trip diary.
Then the weather closed in, first fog then a heavy rain. That delayed the gathering in of the tenders but we did up anchor at 1700 and set out for the South Queensferry suburb of Edinburgh.
We went to dinner in the MDR. The couple who were later seated next to us came from a Wisconsin background - Two Rivers natives, then Madison civil servants. Moved away from Madison to Door County (WI) and a place in The Villages in Florida. Had some fun recalling old Wisconsin things.
Then returned to suite to take it easy.
20240627 Wednesday
Overnight run to Edinburgh, Scotland. Actually, anchored in the Forth just below the Firth of Forth rail bridge & using tenders to put us ashore in South Queensferry at the foot of that bridge. Smaller ship traffic going back and forth near us.
Just above the bridges (rail and auto) is the Rosyth naval base and shipyard, currently full of their aircraft carrier and six old nuclear subs awaiting scrapping.
We tendered in and hopped onto the bus. It took us across countryside to Stirling city. We had more than an hour there, so some of the more able folks hiked up the hill to the castle. D & O hiked around the corner to a shopping mall. D returned to aquisition mode, filing a small bag.
The we stopped for a breakfast sandwich and tea (O) or mocha (D), both quite nice. We then returned to the bus which carried us onward to the Falkirk Wheel attraction. This device on the Forth & Clyde canal allows narrow canal boats to pass from Edinburgh to Glasgow. The upper level of the canal attaches to the basin carrying it down to the lower level while the basin that was on the bottom moves to the top. The movement of 300 tons of water and boat is made easy since the two basins counterbalance each other; even when there's a boat in one (since any boat displaces its weight in water to float - see Archimedes).
That brings the transiting boat down 75 feet quickly WITHOUT the down canal water flow needed in a locking system. The water in the upper basin just moves to the lower basin & vice versa. Very clever.
We got into a large canal boat and did the cycle. Into the lower basin, isolate the canal end and the basin end. Rotate our boat, water, and us to the upper position. Open the canal end and the basin end, then move the boat up the canal to a turning place. Turn the boat 180* and re-enter the basin we used to come up. Isolate the basin and canal waters and rotate down. The connect the waters again and move the boat to where we started.
It takes eight small hydraulic motors to swap the position of the two 300 ton containers in about five minutes.
After our cycle we exited through the gift shop, being careful to buy only things we need. Back to the bus, bus back through the countryside to South Queensferry.
Photo Links
Then the routine - tender to ship and up to suite. There we found a note addressed to us saying we'd advanced to 4-star in the HA loyalty program. Gives a few more perks. Yay!!
Dinner in the MDR where O knocked over his water glass, causing a medium-sized flap. Good meal. Then up to the Crow's Nest for nightcap. Then to suite to relax, rest, and sleep.
