20040823

August 23, 2004
Monday

Start: Colonies CG at Fort Monroe VA
End: USAF Rec Ctr, Fort Fisher NC (south of Wilmington)
Miles: 270

Temps: High 92.8, Low 65.8. The high wasn't that high, more like 80.

We snuck out of Fort Monroe fairly early and did a shuffle new to us. West on I-64, then south on I-664, under the James River channel and across the river. Then south on US-13 and US-17 to the Wilmington area and local roads to this USAF Recreation Center. It's on the shore of the Cape Fear River and only a few feet from the Atlantic Ocean.

Traffic on the local roads, especially NC-132, was fierce. Come to think of it, New Bern NC and Jacksonville NC were also really nasty. I don't think I'll do US-17 from Virginia tidewater to the Wilmington area again. There's not much to see but swamp. US-460 to Emporia, then I-95 and I-40 would probably be as fast or faster.

It has a neat little bar and grill where you can sit and look out over the river, a mini-store, and a recreation hall. It also has beaucoup mosquitos when the breeze dies down and lets them come out. C'mon, Wind!!

We picked up lots of brochures to evaluate to see what we want to do for the next couple of days. Downtown Wilmington looks interesting, as does the Aquarium and Fort Fisher itself.

We have a full hookup site that's somewhat narrow but adequate.

We took a ride back into Kure Beach and Carolina Beach to find bananas for D. A little store had the basics. There are a couple of interesting-looking restaurants. When we returned, we made a chicken-and-dumpling dinner with salads and Pinot Grigio. Very nice.

Now, we're settling in. Tomorrow, we'll do downtown Wilmington.


20040824

August 24, 2004 PhotoLink
Tuesday

Start: USAF Rec Ctr, Fort Fisher NC (south of Wilmington)
End: USAF Rec Ctr, Fort Fisher NC (south of Wilmington)
Miles: 0

Temps: High 92.5, Low 70.3; the 92.5 is too high by ten degrees since we're sitting on a concrete slab and the head radiated from it affects the sensor under the trailer.

We got up early and went to the campground snack bar for breakfast, very nice. Super friendly folks here. One staffer was saying that July was a circus with lots of people using the facility and that we were smart to wait until this week when the kids are back in school. The facility (cabins, lodge, campground) is full this coming weekend.

We hopped into the truck and went into Wilmington via the River Road up the Cape Fear River, a nice way to get there. Wilmington downtown is a middling-sized place. The architecture is interesting, and the waterfront is also. The place has a history as a shipping and railroading center in the 1800's and was the mainstay of shipping for the Confederacy. The Union blockade never did quite choke off Confederate shipping (using blockade-running ships) until a second attack carried Fort Fisher, the fort at the mouth of the river, in January 1865.

We did a driving tour of downtown and then visited the Cotton Exchange set of buildings. One of these buildings was really a cotton exchange back when, but the others had different roles in the city of that time. Now, they're all linked and function as a set of boutique shops. Dolores found several small things and I found one. We returned to the trailer by way of a supermarket for lunch.

Then we went down the road a few miles to the local North Carolina Aquarium (they have three, all nice). NC is quite serious about its saltwater so the whole aquarium is a learning experience for visitors. It's an impressive place and not very expensive. We had a lot of fun looking at the various exhibits and the creatures shown (everything from alligators to sharks to tiny fish in the tanks, and all sorts of things outside).

Finally, we left and returned to the trailer to refresh ourselves. Then we went downtown (if there is such a thing) in Kure Beach to dine at the Dockside. Dolores had mussels and grouper chowder and crab-stuffed shrimp; I had salad and chicken picatta. The house wines were good and the whole dinner (in an old church) was very nice.

Then we went to the end of the road on US-421 south of the campground to watch the sun set. It was very nice tonight, with only a small amount of haze to obscure it in the last half-degree of descent.

We returned to the little house in the Air Force Rec Center to settle in and to process photographs taken.


20040825

August 25, 2004 PhotoLink
Wednesday

Start: USAF Rec Ctr, Fort Fisher NC (south of Wilmington)
End: USAF Rec Ctr, Fort Fisher NC (south of Wilmington)
Miles: 0

Temps: High 92.5, Low 72. The real high is about 84.

We got up and went out to perform our tourist duties - looking at things. We went first to the Fort Fisher State Historic Site, just down the road.

The fort here, a series of banked-up sand gun emplacements with casements under the sand for powder and shell storage, was built during the civil war to protect Wilmington from attacks coming upriver and to keep the Union blockade vessels at arms-length. Wilmington was the last port still open to the Confederacy in January 1865; almost all of General Lee's support came into Wilmington and up the railroad to Petersburg VA. The Union attack in mid-January finally captured the fort and closed the port to shipping. Lee was doomed from that day on.

We watched the slide show explaining all this and more, then looked around the building at the artifacts in it. Then we looked at a huge animated map of the battle to better understand it. Finally, we took a tour with a very enthusiastic park employee who is very knowledgeable and gave us a bunch of facts and trivia to make the battle more real. He was great.

We put in our contribution and bought a book about the campaign here.

Then we drove a few hundred yards down the road to the Fort Fisher State Recreation Area, a beach and support area. We grabbed a quick sandwich at the snack bar and went out onto the beach. I watched Dolores' shoes while she strolled up and down the beach looking for shells. When she returned, we headed for the Food Lion to get a few groceries. We drove through a State Park behind the Food Lion to look at it; very nice, and included a marina on the river. All these NC attractions were free; no charge to anyone. Very impressive.

We returned to the trailer, put things away, and now I'm doing these chores in mid-afternoon (very early) so I can wrap up and send email including these notes.

Then we'll take it easy and prepare to move to Charleston SC (actually Summerville) tomorrow.


20040826

August 26, 2004
Thursday

Start: USAF Rec Ctr, Fort Fisher NC (south of Wilmington)
End: Charleston SC KOA (Ladson SC)
Miles: 195

Temps: High 93.7, Low 73.9. Hot, humid, cloudy, intermittent rain showers.

We weren't too quick getting up, but we got onto the road efficiently. The drive up Cape Fear into Wilmington went slowly due to traffic and lights. Once on US-17 heading south, we did quite well till we reached the vicinity of Myrtle Beach SC.

There, the traffic is fierce until you get onto the bypass and again south of the bypass. At Georgetown, we turned inland on Alt-17 to go to the KOA without going through downtown Charleston. We came in via Monck's Corner and Goose Creek. Away from the shore, you don't see all the amusement things and motels; you see the low-income part of the state with lots of trailer homes and small businesses in shacks and logging. Quite a contrast.

We found the KOA after missing a turn and turning around. After checking in, we just had to examine the "zoo" shown on the campground map. It turns out they have a raccoon in one cage, a cougar in another, and a small alligator in an enclosure with a pond. None of them looks too happy about being in captivity.

We needed to do the laundry. We called Erica and were told to come on over whenever we finished. We did the laundry and went there.

John had reached home by the time we reached the house. Over a drink, they gave us the full tour. They've only recently moved into the house they're now in. It has a huge yard and a workshop and a pool. The house is nice with 3/2 and a great arrangement of living room and dining room/kitchen.

Erica and John look great and Sophie (3) and Phoebe (17mos) are doing just fine. They're both so cute.

We chatted for a while, then went out to dinner at Oscar's. While waiting for a table, the girls entertained us (and the hostess) with their antics. The girls were active at the table, but not overly so; they did very well. I had a Greek chicken-and-shrimp combination that was great and the others all said their food was fine as well.

We returned to the house for coffee and talk. It was decided tomorrow morning we'd pick out what we want to do with tomorrow and Saturday and talk with Erica to arrange how we work it out. Detroit lost to the Red Sox 4-1.

We returned to the trailer to settle and do the chores.


20040827

August 27, 2004 PhotoLink
Friday

Start: Charleston SC KOA (Ladson SC)
End: Charleston SC KOA (Ladson SC)
Miles: 0

Temps: Not observed.

We traveled into downtown Charleston this morning, stopping first at the Visitor's Center. This is a worthwhile stop. We picked up a bunch of brochures, especially the walking tour one. We parked near the market and began our walking tour at the market by shopping our way through the market's booths. We picked up a few items, including a wind-chime and a bunch of shells. We also had lunch there.

We continued the walking tour, looking at interesting things as we went. We cut off a part of the tour and hopped to the ending so it would bring us back to the market. There was a lovely antiques shop which we toured despite all the items being more expensive than we would pay for things that don't fit in the scheme of a Florida open house. There was a beautiful early 1800's French server for $7, 500.

We took the truck out to John's Island to look at the "Angel Oak", a huge old live oak tree that some believe is the oldest living thing east of the Mississippi. After a lot of driving, we found it up a sandy road. It's a BIG tree. I've forgotten the statistics now, but I paced off the spread of the limbs and came to 150' across. The tree's old limbs stretch out parallel to and sometimes onto the ground, then out some more. The county has braced the tree in places to prevent damage by winds.

We headed for the trailer by going out to US-17 south of Charleston and going north to I-526. On I-526, we ran into a cloudburst that slowed us to 15mph, and slowed progress to nearly nothing at the I-526/I-26 merge. I got impatient, got onto I-26 going south then onto Dorchester road going north to the USAF Base. We got past security and went to the Class Six for some wine and beer, then out the back gate of the base (I remembered some of my time here in the 60's and 70's) and up to the trailer, where we grabbed the computer and then went on to John & Erica's house.

Erica had done a seafood dinner buffet setup that was just great - crabcakes, salmon, king crab legs, shrimp, potatoes, salad and pinot grigio. We ate and chatted and really enjoyed the food. Then we watched our pictures on the laptop for a while, followed by a game of Scrabble with talk and laughter and fooling around. Erica brought out her accordian and played it briefly. Eventually, everyone tired out and we went home to the trailer, arriving after midnight. More tomorrow.


20040828

August 28, 2004 PhotoLink
Saturday

Start: Charleston SC KOA (Ladson SC)
End: Charleston SC KOA (Ladson SC)
Miles: 0

Temps: High 85.1, Low 72.9 (for the past two days, no readings taken yesterday)

We got up early, ate and drove to the former Naval Base. It was sort of spooky driving into the formerly secure area that now has no guards, since there's no need for that type of security now. The base and the shipyard were closed years ago. Now, various commercial enterprises have taken over the facilities; we saw ships in a couple of the drydocks and at a few piers, so somebody's doing something.

We continued to the restoration facility that contains the remains of the Confederate submarine H. L. Hunley. Hunley was the first submarine to sink a ship. It was hand-cranked and could barely submerge. It was very primitive and, in fact, sank with loss of life twice before her third crew took her out and sank USS Housatonic, a ship of the blockading force. Forty-five minutes later, the Hunley lit a lamp that signified success. Nothing was heard from her after that.

In 1993, the novelist Clive Cussler sponsored an expedition to find Hunley; they were finally successful in 1995. In 2000, the Hunley was raised and taken to a fresh-water tank for preservation and analysis. It is still in that tank.

I'll leave further descriptions to those interested in them; many books and web pages are devoted to the subject.

We entered for our 10:00 tour a little early so we could be checked in and so that our cameras could be taken from us. The National Geographic Society contributed financially to the effort and thus owns all photography rights. An introductory lecture was given after which we were admitted to the platform from which one looks down into the pool containing the Hunley.

Hunley is rusty and parts are missing, but still in a very good state after that long underwater in sand. Six plates on her upper deck have been removed for viewing and analysis; the interior has been painstakingly removed to recover all human and other artifacts. It was determined that all eight of her crew were on board and at their stations when they died; the commander and seven crankers. No plans have been found of the Hunley, so measurements have been made and the design determined by examinations.

It's hard to imagine eight people having the courage to get into that ship and operate it. Wow.

We came out of the viewing area and entered the gift shop and video presentations room. We looked around for some time, bought a few souvenirs, and finally left. I had a nice chat with a retired E9 nuke named Mabie who volunteers his time to help these tours.

We returned to the trailer and ate lunch. We called Erica and invited them over (John was working). We cleaned up the trailer. Erica and the girls arrived and we went to look at the animals. The raccoon was uncooperative, but the cougar put on a small show by stretching and flicking his tail. The alligator was ashore and looked dead except for his eyes, which never left the little girls.

Dolores had bought little toys and gave them to the girls, but they weren't interested at first. First, they had to prowl all through the trailer. Then they had a cupcake and played with toys for a minute. When they got restless, Sophie took off for the bed and made it into a child-sized trampoline. Phoebe tried to follow but could only get up onto the bed and watch.

After a play time and another look at the animals, they went home.

We caught a tropical storm warning of a small storm that popped up right offshore called "Gaston". It's due here tomorrow with high winds and lots of rain. I decided to prepare better for our move tomorrow; I drained all the tanks, put away the drain hose stuff, and raised the aft jacks. Now, I'll only have to raise the nose of the trailer to hitch up to it, then disconnect the electric and water, hook up the electric to the truck and drive off.

Then we went to church at Saint John the Beloved in Summerville. Nice church with a black priest from the Carribean by his accent.

We went to John & Erica's house and looked at pictures of the kids. Then we went to North Charleston to a restaurant named "Gennaro's" for dinner. We got a good waiter who could tell us what things we might like and who was very tolerant of our having the kids there. We had a great Italian wine (name escapes me at the moment) and antipasto, then our dinners. I had chicken prosciutto that was very good. We had coffee and desserts. Then we waddled out. The girls were great until right at the end when they got a bit tired - but that was after 9:30, so they should have been tired.

We said our goodbyes in the restaurant parking lot. It was a great stop on our tour and we'll have to come back or meet them somewhere.

We got to the trailer before the rain started, but only just. We turned on the TV and found a weather update that indicates the "tropical storm warning" is now a "hurricane warning", since it might get that strong. But it also has turned slightly north, so we won't receive much wind here (and less as we go south). We will have rain, however. Maybe lots of rain. Oh, well, I've been wet before. We don't have all that far to go tomorrow, either.

It's 11:30, I'm done with these notes and off to bed.